Art Deco is celebrating its centenary in 2025, the same year Jeanne Lanvin completed her private apartments. Three of the rooms, awash in vivid blue, are on permanent display at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris.
For his sophomore show, artistic director Peter Copping made blue the color of his set, and some dresses, while also drawing on that pivotal decade for his low-slung dresses, geometric patterns and the headbands worn by some models.
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It added up to a soigné display, strong on cocktail and evening dresses bearing the mark of an experienced designer with a light and delicate hand. The audience roared when Copping strolled out for his bow, his shirt and eyes also blue.
The designer focused his research on the work of the founder, reprising some embroideries, but veiling the cabochons with chiffon, or conscripting an illustrator to interpret them as prints. It’s not quiet luxury, but everything is played at a civilized volume.
Copping also sought to bring some sensuality to 1920s silhouettes, and so his long flapper dresses came open on the sides, and then lashed with ribbons around the hips.
Puff-shouldered jackets and snug little sweaters also came with an arch carved out at the back, the hem held together with a stretch of grosgrain ribbon, which recurred across the collection.
Copping cuts a trench much like a dress, with a full skirt, a defined waist and some drama to the sleeves, and his white skirts with tiers of exaggerated black godets were sensational, telegraphing Art Deco and the Jazz Age in a modern, minimal way.
The menswear was harder to read, stretching from lime green jeans and technical outerwear to grand leather coats. When it came together, it gave pleasing off-duty Nureyev vibes, but this category is still a work in progress.
Launch Gallery: Lanvin Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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