Designer John Galliano (1960–) suggested as much when he said, “the joy of dressing is an art”.
Dressing is an active practice and is vital for participation in society – not just for the sake of modesty, but because attire speaks of identity. Clothing designates how people want to be perceived, and can be an important marker of gender, social status, political affiliation and heritage.
Haute couture artists are also becoming more accessible to the public, reflecting a societal shift that recognises – and even craves – fashion as art.
John Galliano was the lead designer at Christian Dior from 1997 to 2011, the so-called “golden age of haute couture”. He is currently partnered with fast-fashion giant Zara in a two-year collaboration deal.
Perhaps then, fashion becomes art when it transcends functionality and becomes performative, creative or inspirational.
Interpreting Met Gala fashions
So how might we approach judging fashion as art at this year’s Met Gala?
First, ask yourself if the outfit evokes emotion. Not just awe or joy – but even shock, hate or fascination. The primary purpose of art is to elicit feeling.
In 2022, Kim Kardashian sparked outrage when she wore Marilyn Monroe’s famous “Happy Birthday, Mr President” dress to the gala.
The theme that year was In America: An Anthology of Fashion. For many people, Monroe and her famous gown represented the height of American culture.
Kim’s use of the dress sparked broader conversations about historical objects, ethics and celebrity culture. Some also accused her of damaging it.
As you watch this year’s gala, it’s worth examining whether any of the outfits stimulate a thought or conversation about politics, history, technology or culture.
Designers often use colours, textiles and shapes to express something about society. These messages may be subtle, or at times quite explicit.
In 2021, American politician Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez wore a white gown with “tax the rich” written on the back, referencing the extreme wealth disparity in the United States.
Fashion reflects who we are, and the world we live in. If that isn’t art, I don’t know what is.
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